Keywork Assembly
I have covered the keywork assembly in the video.
Here are a few things to be aware of.
Wear a face mask. The dust is very fine. I use a blowgun from a compressor to blow the dust away.
When drilling the small end of the key and cup mechanism with the 1.80mm diameter drill try to make sure that the key is drilled as staight as possible and you have the key aligned with the drill. This means that the end of the key will rotate freely on the special pivot rods.
Make sure that when you ream the larger end of the keys and pad cups with the 3.00mm reamer that the same applies about aligning the reamer with the key.
Keep the drill and reamer free from dust by blowing on it.
Do not force the drills. The material is soft and too much pressure could result in the key breaking.
The fit of the carbon fibre rod should be snug, but not tight. If the key doesnot want to go onto the rod then do not force it. Run it on the reamer once more and try.
Repeat if necessary.
There may be tiny nibs on the ends of the keys that have the small hole. Lightly remove them with a fine file or rub them carefully on a piece of flat 400 wet and dry paper.
This will ensure that you get the correct end float when you assemble with the brass gauge (included with the assembly pack).
When you make the countersink on the larger diameter hole of the key, you can make it as deep as you dare. As long as it does not exceed the diameter of the tube.
This gives you ample room for the thin super glue to sit around the rod. Fill with enough glue so it fills the countersink. If you have the correct fit of the rod and the key, the thin glue should flow all around the rod and into the tube.
The thinner the glue the better. I have found that Satalite City glues work really well, but others that I am not aware of may also work equally well.